The Macallan is one of the most beloved names in the world of whisky, let alone Scotch whisky. Founded in 1824, it was one of the first Scottish distilleries to produce whisky legally. At that time, there was still a culture of bootlegging and bandits in the country. Over the years, The Macallan has become known as one of the best single malt whiskies in the world. You can’t utter names like Glenfiddich and Glenlivet without mentioning The Macallan as well.
The distillery was founded by a barley farmer named Alexander Reid. He got into distilling because whisky making was just something farmers did at that time. They would use their extra barley to make whisky so they didn’t have to throw it away. The name “Macalan” comes from the combination of two Gaelic words: “Magh” (fertile land) and “Ellan” (of St. Fillan). St. Fillan was an Irish monk who spent much of the eighth century spreading Christianity throughout Scotland.
The Six Pillars
The Six Pillars are “the foundation stones for the fame and character of The Macallan.” They embody the heart and togetherness that exists at the distillery. According to The Macallan website, they are: Spiritual Home, Curiously Small Still, Finest Cut, Exceptional Oak Casks, Natural Color and The Macallan Itself.
Master of Wood
One of the Six Pillars is “Expectional Oak Casks”. It might actually be the most important pillar of all. If you don’t have amazing wood, you don’t have great casks and you don’t have delicious whisky. One person has the enviable job of having to choose the right wood for The Macallan. The job is Master of Wood and it entails the overseeing of the supply and management of The Macallan’s casks. “I also am involved in our education program around wood and its influence on the whisky,” says Stuart MacPherson, Master of Wood for The Macallan.
In 2012, he assumed the role of Master of Wood for The Macallan. “In this role, I’m the primary source of information on The Macallan’s oak casks and the influence on the whiskies.” He is also involved in the far reaching brand education program around wood. “This is a crucial role as the influence of the cask maturation casks on the final character of The Macallan is critical.”
A typical work day for the Master of Wood is spent following the path of the acorn to bottle production of The Macallan. “This starts with seeing which areas are best for planting to making sure all the casks are all up to the amazing standard The Macallan prides itself on.” As Spanish Operations Manager, his main focus is concentrating more on working with their cask suppliers and seasoning bodegas in Spain. “Typically this role would involve me checking that our casks are made to our specifications, that we have sufficient enough wood stocks to meet our increasing demands and we have sufficient enough storage space with our bodega partners.”
Even though The Macallan is distilled and matured in Scotland, much of the operational activity relating to wood takes place in Spain so MacPherson tends to split his time between Scotland and Spain. “As Master of Wood, I travel regularly around the world supporting the brand and our teams in various locations.”
Why Spanish Wood?
“Spanish oak, primarily from the Galicia region of northern Spain, yields a spicier finished product, with notes of sherry, dried fruits like sultanas, raisins, and candied peel, as well as cinnamon, nutmeg, wood, caramel, orange, and Christmas cake.”
Before Macallan, MacPherson was working with the Clyde Cooperage group in Glasgow as a cooper in 1979. He stayed with the group until 2001 at which point he was a manager. “I initially started working in the Scotch Whisky Industry 36 years ago as an apprentice cooper, learning how to make and repair casks.” Over the years he has developed his skills and knowledge about how the specific oaks we use influence both the spirit character and color, plus also managing their cooperages. “I’m now responsible for overseeing every stage of our casks production process in Spain, with a key focus on managing the cask supplies.”
The Cask and Aging
The majority of the flavors and characteristics of whisky are picked up by the casks in which they are matured. “Wood is also full of oil called vanillin which also, when drawn out of the cask by the spirit, contributes to the strong flavor profiles,” says MacPherson. “Here at The Macallan, we take our wood very seriously and because of this, we spend more per cask than any other distillery in sourcing, crafting, seasoning and caring for our casks.” He believes that exceptional wood is a must for exceptional whisky and it’s something that they take great pride in. “For all Macallan whiskies the quality of a whisky is largely dependent on the quality of the oak casks it is matured in, as well as the quality of the new make spirit distilled from water, yeast and barley.” He says that up to 60% of The Macallan’s final whisky colour, character and flavour determined by cask quality. “The oak cask is the most prominent factor in ensuring and delivering the quality and style of The Macallan.”
Potential Cask Shortage
MacPherson says that technically there is no cask shortage even with the recent surge in whisky sales worldwide. “In a word no, however due to the increasing demand of American oak driven primarily by the increase in bourbon barrel production, plus the availability of used bourbon barrels, this has meant that a number of Scotch Whisky companies who have relied on these casks as an in fill to production increases, have found it difficult to source casks.” This has resulted in oak prices rising significantly over the last 3 years. “Which in turn has also had an effect on European oak prices as customers try to secure either stocks of logs or used casks to meet increased filling demands.”
