Researchers in Portugal recently discovered marinating meat in beer reduces the level of potentially carcinogenic PAH chemicals released from hot coals, with dark stout having the greatest impact.
Its music to most barbecue loving ears and a great excuse to experiment with different stouts and lagers. We tapped the big daddy of America’s craft-brewing movement, Brooklyn Brewery, and their chef Andrew Gerson for great pairings. For starters, Gerson recommends Brooklyn’s Black Chocolate stout for a marinade.
“It’s delicious. It’s coffee and chocolate undertones will elevate a simple piece of meat. My favorite recipe is for flank or skirt steak.” Gerson and the BB crew have been picking up plenty of ‘cue tips from their on-going MASH tour, collaborating with chefs in cities across the US and Europe gathering food-loving craft-beer enthusiasts together with local producers for a good old hootenanny.
The MASH tour has hit some terrific cities rooted in barbecue: Nashville, Austin, New Orleans and Chicago. The barbecue culture in all of these cities, Gerson says, is based on a wood-fired , slow smoked tradition.
“Texas is known for dry BBQ and you will have trouble finding sauce to slather on your beef, be it ribs or brisket. In the Lone Star State they steer towards the steers, but you can still find some amazing pulled pork. The key to good barbecue anywhere is a pit boss skilled in the art of smoke.”
AUSTIN: Whether you are waiting in Line at Franklins or driving down 183 towards Kreuz, you can be sure to find some smoke-kissed brisket and ribs. These un-sauced, slow-smoked, tender meat morsels are the perfect paring for an American style Amber Lager, able to cut through the richness and fat of your brisket, washing away each smoky bite and leaving you ready for the next.
Lager may be the most straightforward pairing for BBQ but for the slightly more adventurous, try a smoked beer like Rauchbier or a Goze is a nice alternative. Rather than competing with the smoke of the meat these beers compliment the wood-smoked notes of the beef.
NASHVILLE and CHICAGO: Pork-lovers, exit here. For me, there’s no better pairing than Kriek, or other sour-style beers. Krieks are traditionally made with a base of Geuze, a naturally fermented Belgian-style ale with the addition of sour cherries. These tart fruit notes match the delicate sweetness of the smoked pork, cutting the fat with a hint of acidity and melding harmoniously with the wood-infused, smoked shoulders that fall right off the bone.
Brooklyn Brewery is about to release a dark deep and rich kriek that has been bourbon barrel aged, adding a layer of richness and depth. The nose of bourbon and vanilla compliments the subtle smoke of a slow-cooked pork shoulder. This could very well be my desert island pairing.
NEW ORLEANS: In Nola, we were lucky enough to work with the Dinner Lab gang during Hogs For A Cause, the second largest BBQ festival in the world. I learned that a bathtub full of wood coals, tented with two pieces of corrugated metal sheeting and a rotating rack can be just as happy a home for a slow-cooked pig as any pit.
Gerson’s top pairing tip: The beauty of the grill is that caramelized charred meat goes perfectly with the toasted malt character found in most American craft beer, while the bitterness from hops tends to cut through the smoke and fattiness of a good piece of meat. Lagers are a great, straightforward pairing but a slightly darker maltier Doppelbock is always a wise choice.
If you are grilling shrimp or whole fish, lean towards a saison or other farmhouse ale. Brooklyn Brewery Sorachi Ace with its crisp effervescence and citrus notes will enhance any seafood dish. The truth is that many styles work well with the varying nuances, flavors and depth you can pick up on the grill so as the weather improves experiment with varying craft brews and get your grill going.
Note: Check back tomorrow for an original skirt steak recipe directly from Andrew Gerson and Brooklyn Brewery.
