“We’re very laid-back people,” said Regula, a 30-something resident of Bern, appointed one of my unofficial ambassadors to Switzerland’s capitol city. It’s easy to see, literally, where Bern’s chilled-out vibe comes from; the city is surrounded by dramatic views of the Aare River. It’s so clean, the motto is, “Swim with your mouth open.”
And so I did.
The Swiss are mad for swimming. Each city seems to have its own special, logo emblazoned on a dry bag, rubberized to keep the contents safe while floating down the river or lake.
In Bern, there are river entry points all over the city, with railings and signs warning of the next place to get out. The river is Bern’s local amusement park, and it’s free. The water flows so fast, it’s like being on a water flume, and the only way one can properly do strokes is to go against the current, which would be one hell of a workout.
Just ten minute’s walk south of the city centre, sits Marziliplatz, a riverside park, 50 m public swimming pool and a Bernese institution. It’s an absolute oasis. After hopping a bus to the outskirts of the city to visit the Paul Klee Center to take in some art, and the Renzo Piano-designed structure, I had worked up a sweat. Just fifteen minutes later, at Marziliplatz, I was diving into the pool to cool off. Sun-bathing decks, ping pong tables and plenty of green space for a picnic make this a magnet for Bern’s urban dwellers. And, just like the river, it’s absolutely free.
SWISS AIR – Fly the national carrier out of London City, dreamy for its super-fast train to terminal procedure or Heathrow. The best part? Swiss chocolate on-board. And yes, you can have seconds.
Hotel Allegro – Stay at the Allegro Hotel Kursaal – just over the bridge from the old town, you’ll be glad to have a reason to stretch your legs after dinner and the views are spectacular. There’s a lit garden for al fresco drinks, and the breakfast is filled with so many delicious, crunchy fresh breads, including Swiss Mountain bread, and a few gluten-free options, you won’t need to eat for hours.
There are seeds galore, from pumpkin to flax, and light jams with no extra sugar — a rare, treasured find. The morning cheese plate was all local with not a cheddar in sight and granola with dark chocolate; a breakfast made for mountain-climbing.
Lunch at Scwellenmatteli – Set alongside the Aare River, the terrace is a great place for a summer lunch or supper. We lunched on salads, but the seafood mains were tempting.
Mandelberli – Bern’s mascot is the bear and there’s an actual bear park in the city. Skip the bears, and head for any newsagent or bakery, where you’ll find these adorable small bears made of almond flour. There are other flavors, but the original is the best and they make a terrific souvenir.
Kornhaus Galerie Bar – This 400-year old granary is now a bar and restaurant with “wow” factor for its dramatic interiors. Pop inside in winter to listen to live piano and cozy up near the fire. It’s best for a drink before, or after dinner.
Dinner at Loetschberg – Centrally located, this wine and cheese bar has a relaxed, contemporary atmosphere and very reasonable prices (this is Switzerland). It’s a great place to try traditional Swiss classics, like Roesti (okay, its fancy hash browns, but really good). The small cheese plate is a generous portion of various local cheeses, including Tete du Moine. Named Monk’s Head for its round shape, this cheese has its very own unique slicing device: a round wooden board, with a metal bit which goes down the middle, allowing the attached blade to shave off thin slices which finish up looking like flowers as the cheese bunches up to one side. Trust me; its tastes much better than it sounds. Counter all this sinful food with one of Loetschberg’s fantastic salads with a medley of ingredients like sprouts and candied hazelnuts.
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There’s a lit garden for al fresco drinks, and the breakfast is filled with so many delicious, crunchy fresh breads, including Swiss Mountain bread, and a few gluten-free options, you won’t need to eat for hours. There are seeds galore, from pumpkin to flax, and light jams with no extra sugar — a rare, treasured find. The morning cheese plate was all local with not cheddar in sight and granola with dark chocolate; a breakfast made for mountain-climbing.
Munstergasse market – Every Saturday this cobble-stoned, boutique-lined street fills up with local traders. Highlights are the homemade breads and cheeses. Hit Jumi’s stall for generous samples of cheese. I highly recommend the Cirone, a sort of caramelized version of a Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Grab a Flyer Bike – They’re free to borrow around the city. Start at the Heiliggeistkirche, past Parliament, and over the Kirchenfeld Bridge to Kirchenfeld, where there’s a zoo, and the Elfenau Park. The park runs along the river and is a great way to see residential Bern, which is like stepping instantly into the countryside.
Drinks – On a sunny summer day, head to the top of the recently renovated Schweizerhof Hotel just opposite the train station. It’s the hottest ticket in town, and pays to book a table even just for a ‘bevvie’ and nibbles.
For more suggestions, download Make My Switzerland.
