“Basel has a long, long history of art,” Margrit, my tour guide told me. For more than forty years, the city has hosted its eponymous annual art fair – Art Basel. Gallery owners from all over the world flock to Basel every year to sell some of the most valuable contemporary masterpieces to collectors. VIP’s are granted access two days before the show even previews, allowing them to put a red dot next to the most sought-after works.
But Basel is a city whose connection to art goes back even further. Thanks to a number of wealthy residents, including industrialist Raoul La Roche, famous for his pharmaceutical company, Basel possesses an extraordinarily large collection of important pictures.
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The city has a special connection to Picasso. Back in 1967, residents voted to spend six-million Swiss francs from the public budget to buy two treasured Picasso’s for the local art museum in a campaign called, “All you need is Pablo”. The pictures were put up for sale by its owner, a local business scion whose company fell on hard times. Legend has it, Picasso was so touched by the outpouring of support; he donated three paintings and a famous drawing to the Kunstmuseum. A shockingly large collection of Impressionists, post-Impressionists and other genres are part of the permanent collection.
If art isn’t your thing, Switzerland’s third largest city has plenty of other good stuff to fill a summer weekend, as well as your stomach. Bordering both France and Germany, Basel is just a short train ride away from charming cities like Strasbourg, and Freiburg for sampling a real taste of the Alsace-Lorraine region, home to great wine and yes, quiche Lorraine. There are more than 40 museums in Basel, including a cartoon museum. We could barely scratch the surface, but here are our picks for a perfect weekend in Basel:
ARCHITECTURAL TOUR – Book a tour of Basel’s best buildings through the Basel Tourism office. In just two hours, you’ll be guided through parts of town you’d never discover on your own, including the very near border with France. You’ll hit the hospital quarter — more interesting than it sounds, with a children’s hospital covered in foil which changes colors from every angle, and a women’s hospital with panels cut-out to stream natural light into operating rooms. Big pharma Novartis is also a stop, with its eye-catching, Geary-designed headquarters and an office building paneled in a rainbow of colored glass.
WANDER – Basel’s St. Albans quarter has a unique history and hosts the city’s paper mill museum. Check out the gift shop for unique presents. A Greek-Orthodox church stands in the middle of this forested, charming area along the riverside.
WALLISERKANNE – This famous spot attracts locals and tourists for its Alpine specialties, like Swiss Mac and cheese. I’m guessing their version pre-dates the US or UK one. A portion big enough to share comes with a side of apple puree. Try the traditional apple fritters if you dare, but you may need to climb a mountain afterwards.
SWIM – Basel residents take their local swim fish bags, available in local shops; fill them with their clothes and valuables, and head downstream. If you’re a pool person, take the tram just 15 minutes to the Naturbad, a brand new swimming pool with a natural filter, rather than chlorine, designed by famous architects Herzog & de Meuron. WANDER – Basel’s old town is filled with drool-worthy pastry shops. Marzipan gets a lot of play, particularly in one of my favorite treats – Biberli, basically a gingerbread marzipan sandwich.
ZUR HARMONIE – This typical Swiss restaurant is a bit more cramped and casual than Walliserkanne, but the roesti, won’t let you down. What we consider cheap, greasy spoon fare, is a typical Swiss dinner. Pan-fried potatoes come covered in cheese or eggs. Yep, its breakfast for dinner, and nothing could be finer. Ask for a glass of the Swiss rose.
STAY – The Passage is a new boutique hotel well-located just off the busy Barfussbar Square. It’s so named for the convenient passage which leads to the hotel, situated in a quiet, residential area. Rooms are light and large, and the outdoor courtyard is perfect for an al fresco breakfast of fresh, grainy bread or a night cap.
FLY – SWISS flies from London direct to Basel. Expect food and drinks even on this short, 90-minute flight.
