For 82 years, bartenders at “21” have been serving up gin and tonics to the likes of Joe DiMaggio, Aristotle Onassis, LeRoy Neiman and an endless list of other famous names who have passed through the doors of 21 West 52nd Street in New York to drink and dine at the Club. From athletes to politicians, this former speakeasy is a place of legends.
The classic bar and restaurant began life in 1920, during the Prohibition and was originally located in Greenwich Village. College students Jack Kreindler and Charlie Berns moved their secret watering hole three times before permanently settling in a townhouse on 52nd Street, known as the “wettest block on the street, with 38 speakeasies, including “21.”
The exteriors and interiors of “21” are as famous as its patrons. The iconic jockey statues adorning the façade have a story of their own. Regulars were among the “horsey” set and, hoping to leave his personal signature on the establishment; the most loyal donated the first jockey. Many famous breeders and indeed, those from well-bred stock — like the Vanderbilts and Mellons – left similar gifts, creating a team of jockeys which instantly identify the building and are memorialized on the big screen in films like Wall Street and Manhattan Murder Mystery.
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Folklore has it, there was always a front door receptionist to keep out the riffraff, including both sides of the law — federal agents and gangsters, like Legs Diamond who apparently wanted a cut of the business. Nowadays, “21” is filled with businessmen, couples, and families. Women clad in silk scarves, and men jacketed in tweed (jackets are part of the dress code).
Downstairs, the Bar Room has a ceiling to make any boy jealous. Memorabilia creates a sky full of toys — gifts from sporting stars, captains of industry and former Presidents, including a model PT-109, a gift from President John F. Kennedy. Katarina Witt’s figure skates hang alongside John McEnroe’s tennis racket and Jack Nicklaus’ golf club. It is a veritable hall of fame.
And that’s before we even crack the menus. A la carte dishes are a mix of modern, light dishes as well as signature, shall we say “heartier” fare, like the 21 burger with special sauce and a silver bowl full of French fries. The Peekytoe crab salad is a perfect dish of white flaky meat atop hearts of palm, avocado, samphire and grapefruit, lightly dressed in a citrus vinaigrette. We’re seduced by lobster cocktail served with watermelon gazpacho, and caviar.
We move on to a medley of dishes, from black grouper to wild mushrooms, while drooling over the men at the next table. Correction: drooling over the apple crumb pie dripping in caramel sauce and slowly melting vanilla ice cream, that two men are devouring at the next table. It makes anything Super-sized look tiny.
What’s amazing about “21” is that after all these years it’s managed to remain a Manhattan mainstay, not just for tourists and yesteryear nostalgics. The place still has a rep for luring cool cats and seats a packed dinner crowd.
