England’s west country is among the prettiest, with the north and south coasts of Cornwall, providing great surf, and fresh, local seafood. Cornwall is at its best in September, especially after a warm summer, but even in the off-off-season months of November and December, the endless trails along the moors and beaches, finished with tea by the fire, make it a great place for a long weekend or week-long digital break.
We took the train from London to Newquay for a 4-day jaunt filled with downtime, adrenalin rushes, a few sights, and fantastic food.
Here are our picks for a great mix of high-low, fast-slow.
WHERE: Newquay, on the north coast, isn’t so much a destination, as a base. Surfers come here for lessons and great waves. Everything’s spread out in Cornwall, so it’s about an hour to anywhere, from anywhere.
SEE: Land’s End – It’s worth the journey out to Land’s End, the western-most point, for the views, and the landmark sign pointing in all directions, but be warned: it’s £10 per photo. A photo company owns the sign and doesn’t let anyone off easy. There are miles of trails, with mapped out walks: short and long. Nip into the Land’s End Hotel to warm up with a cuppa’ afterwards.
Related: Visiting the Gorgeous Fury of Niagara Falls
EAT: The Hub – From Land’s End, it’s about an hour to St. Ives, one of Cornwall’s art headquarters. Have a wander through the small, winding streets before burgers at The Hub, on the waterfront. Make room for the milkshakes, which come in unusual flavors like brownie, blended with the real thing.
DO: If you’ve never surfed, take a lesson from Extreme Academy at Watergate Bay. Classes are 2 ½ hours and give you plenty of know-how, as well as time on the board. They also teach kite-surfing, hand-planing and other water sports. Equipment is also available to hire.
EAT: Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant, a social enterprise, sits just above the Extreme Academy, overlooking Watergate Bay. But, bring a torch. It’s at the end of a dark car park, with a sign that would benefit from lighting. Service is touch and go, but the seasonal ricotta and mint-stuffed zucchini flowers was spot on.
SEE: Visit Falmouth, on the south coast for a bit of maritime history at the museum. The town is easily walkable with shops, boutiques and pubs lining the high street. Take the small ferry across to St. Mawes to see a quieter, non-commercial side of Cornwall, where the other half resides.
EAT: Just inland from Falmouth’s waterfront, is Merchant’s Manor, a hotel and restaurant serving game and seafood sourced within a mile or two and a forager turns up with his bounty every Friday. Try a glass of local champagne – Roseland’s Knightor Brut leaves a crisp, green apple taste on the top of the tongue.
DO: Watergate Bay is made for chilling. Spend part of a day at the Swim Club, taking advantage of the spa, getting a massage, or sipping a warm drink in the lounge. Head out to the beach for walks that can last as long as you like.
SIP: Head about an hour south to Fowey, former home of novelist Daphne DuMaurier, and a harbor town set on an inlet. Before heading down to the waterfront, make your way to The Fowey Hotel, a throwback to Victorian times. Take a seat on the terrace, looking out at the harbor for afternoon tea. The folks at the Fowey are traditionalists; don’t expect over-indulgence. Sticking to the original afternoon tea, invented in 1841, The Fowey serves finger sandwiches, Cornish clotted cream and scones, and a wonderful cornet filled with cream, and the thickest strawberry jam you’ll ever taste, made by a little old lady down the road.
EAT: Save room for dinner at Zacry’s, back at Watergate Bay. More importantly, save room for extra helpings of DaBara’s bread. Slabs of truly sour, sourdough and dark rye are the best loaves I’ve eaten in the UK. Crusts are crunchy, dough is soft, and flavors are strong. I’ll be waging a personal campaign for national distribution. Scallops with cauliflower puree and the venison are highlights.
HOW: Great Western Trains offers service from London Paddington. First class tickets make a Sunday journey much more civilized. They allow access to the lounge at Paddington, just make sure you get there for teatime to taste the lovely Victoria Sponge and Fruitcakes.
