Just a week after Oprah tweeted, “best spa ever,” I arrive at the Dolder Grand Hotel, perched in the steep hills above Zurich.
Dolder staff excel at discretion, having hosted foreign dignitaries and Hollywood royalty, like Henry Kissinger and Leonardo DiCaprio. First built as a hotel in the late 19th century, the “city resort” underwent a multimillion dollar refurbishment five years ago. Sitting on the edge of a forest, rooms overlook Lake Zurich.
Zurich’s own come for the decadent, multi-sensory stimulating spa, and the peaceful scenery; others use the Dolder as a tranquil base for exploring the city. A hotel shuttle, or the charming Dolder Bahn, a funicular that looks more like an alpine toy train (it only makes three stops), chugs up and down the hill for the 20-30 minute journey from the Dolder to downtown Zurich.
The Dolder is a hotel for nature-lovers, with views of the lake, or the forest, throughout. Rooms are the model of Swiss efficiency. Lights and temperature are controlled through a sleek, slender remote control. Six power jets in the shower make it feel like a human car wash.
Japanese and European influences inspire a spa which is a theme park for grown-ups. Unique highlights are the Sunaburo pebble loungers; tubs filled with smooth stones emanating heat and a snow room for cooling off, which resembles a winter sauna packed with ice. The separate mens and women’s spa areas are like entering another world; a low, Japanese-style wood table in the centre, featuring crystallised ginger, and tea, is surrounded by plunge pools, whirlpools saunas and steam rooms. An outdoor Jacuzzi looks out over the city and a chill out room offers hammocks with headphones piping relaxing music.
Then, there are all the sports activities…the golf course, which also commands incredible views of Lake Zurich, clay courts, a 50 meter outdoor swimming pool, and a secret limestone doorway. Behind it, is a small storage area filled with mountain bikes. Good mountain bikes. Specialised mountain bikes. The forest, perfect for a vigorous hike or run, is made for cycling, and allows a bit of exploration beyond the luxury compound.
The interiors of the Dolder Grand are as stimulating as the exteriors, with more than 100 works of art by well-known artists. The private collection offers a rare glimpse of works by artists like Hirst, Haring, Warhol and others.
As artful as the paintings, is the food by Michelin-starred chef Heiko Neider. The German chef won the restaurant two Michelin stars, and 18 points from Gault Millau. A selection of amuses-bouches are clever and inventive, with a play on Swiss Bircher muesli, topping birch foam with chanterelles, blackberries and cheese. We can’t stay away from the very more-ish bread. Crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, the small round loaf is served with mustard butter, a blend of deli mustard whipped with butter. It’s an unusual combination that works so well, I’m almost afraid to try it at home. With ten chefs, and just four for the venison alone, this is haute cuisine with an emphasis on flavors and precise presentation.
If time, or budget don’t permit a stay here, it’s worth coming just for a spa day, a meal, or a drink to take in the views and art. What’s good enough for Oprah…
